Provence, Southern France

The quintessential provencal wine is Rosè, however they do some other red wines here.

There is a mish-mash of grape varieties brought into the region by various invaders over the past few centuries - however Carignan planted to supply cheap reds in the 1900's to the rest of France is slowly being replaced by more Rosè-friendly varieties of Grenach, Cinsault and Syrah [Shiraz].

Appellations

Provence actually consists of several different appellations - the largest being Côtes de Provence, which covers a triangular area from Toulon in the south west to almost Cannes in the east, and inland to the small town of Cotignac.

Then curiously enough, this appellation also includes some dotted areas just east and south of Aix, and even the odd coastal region between other appellations.

Altogether, this patchwork appellation is France's largest.

The other appellations of Provence include:

• Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence - spreading north and north-west of Aix

• Les Baux-de-Provence - south of Avignon (although this has become an appellation of its own in the past 20 years)

• Coteaux Varois - east of Aix

• Côte du Lubéron - noth of the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence

• Bandol - a relatively tiny region on the coast between Marseille and Toulon;

• Bellet - struggling to maintain ground around a growing Nice;

• Cassis - east along the coast from Marseille;

• Pallette - encircling Aix;

• Côte du Ventoux on the northern border of Provence.

Blessed with good winds ...

Whilst at first it seems that the southern French just can't make up their minds whether their wines are Povencal or not, it is more likely there are so many appellations within Provence because of the varying climatic influences.

An appellation considers the terroir of an area, rather than a geographical location, and this of course includes the climatic influences.

The mediterranian warmth spreads across much of Côtes de Provence, however the massifs [mountains] inland shield some areas from maritime influence and produce sometimes alpine temperatures.

The mistral winds which blow across the south of France quickly reinstate dry conditons after rainfall in some areas - particularly Les Baux - creating almost ideal conditions for organic viticulture. [Less chance of rot = less fungicides]

Visiting Cellar Door:

Wine tourism in this region is a struggle. There are no bus tours of the wine regions - at least none that the tourism office in Aix could tell us of.

We picked up a brochure "Route de Vins" at the Aix-en-Provence Tourist Information Centre, which supposedly showed some larger estates in the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence region, but the map provided didn't name or number the highway you're supposed to be on. And it was only in French.

The car hire company in Aix gave us incorrect 'waving of the hands' directions to the Route des Vins region. No map whatsoever.

There is very little signage leaving the city, in fact NONE indicating the Route de Vins, and it wasn't long before we were lost. We actually fell across the correct route by accident when we came across one of the very few signs for the Route de Vins actually on the circuit.

People were actually scarce on the road and in the vineyards themselves. When we arrived at several of the cellar doors, they were closed for their 2-hour lunch. Or was it 3 hours?

Those that we did find open appeared somewhat perplexed that we wanted to look around the vineyards and winery. The impression we took away with us was that they just thought people come to taste and buy wines, not to look around the facilities.

It was all worth it, though, when passing through Les Baux ... just 20km south of Avignon. It was an area I came across in my studies, and had waited a long time to see. The vignerons there take great care of their environment, and Les Baux is famous for its organic and biodynamic wines - which constitute around 85% of production.

The Chaîne des Alpilles glistening in the sun made a magnificent backdrop to the vineyards of this rugged landscape.

Dividing the 30 estates of the Les Baux region equally, is the remains of an ancient Chateau (Des Baux) which has been occupied since prehistoric times. Although the drive up the hill is fraught with danger - with some serious rocky outcrops sticking out into the narrow road - it's truly a magnificent find. Don't miss it.

Incidentally, the cicadas you find everywhere in this region (including the Route de Vins signage) in all forms from hairpins to wall-mountable ceramics are believed to bring good luck. Grab one if you're going to attempt chateau visiting!

And one more thing ... if you're backpacking, avoid the Hostel in Avignon like the plague ... it might just be where you catch it ...