Champagne

Only sparkling wines that come from the region of Champagne in northern France are allowed to be called 'Champagne'. These fine, refreshing and effervescent wines are made by traditional methods used for centuries in this region.

A Perfect Marriage of Terroir & Grapes ...

The climate in Champagne region is cool, with mild Atlantic breezes calming the continental conditions, inflicting periods of rain, frosts and storms.

Champagne as a region is situated around latitude 49 ... too far away from the equator to ripen grapes normally. However the close locale of the ocean offers moderating factors. In fact, during the summer months here, they experience warmer temperatures than neighbouring Germany, and other cooler regions such as New Zealand.

Under these conditions, the three grape varietals allowed under appellation law [Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay] ripen slowly, but early enough to avoid Autumn, and with higher levels of acidity.

Each of these grape varietals provides a different character to the resulting wine:

• Chardonnay brings freshness and elegance;

• Pinot Noir adds fruity characters and body;

• Pinot Meunier provides structure and aging potential, as well as contribution to the bouquet.

The fine wines of Champagne owe their finesse firstly to the chalky white soil of the area. In fact there is a layer of fine rich soil on top of the chalk - which provides nutrients to the grape vines. The chalk has good water retention properties, and holds heat, which it meters out to the vines slowly and consistently.

The final aspect, and by no means the least, is the expertise of winemakers specialising in creating traditional, elegant Champagne. Of course this could be said of all winemakers of all types or styles of wine. But the emphasis on the skill of Champagne winemakers refers to their excellent knack for blending.

Champagne houses collect their grapes from various yards in the region, and the different base wines made from these grapes are blended to the taste of these experts.

This is undoubtedly why most Champagnes carry the name of the house on their labels, not the grape names or region.

By Design? ... or by fluke?

The most accepted story of the origin of Champage involves the father of Champagne himself, Dom Perignon:

The tradition of making sparkling wine (Cremants) in Limoux (South East France - between Perpignan and Toulouse) dates back to the 16th century. 

In the year 1531 the process of second fermentation was discovered and fine-tuned there in the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Hilaire. They actually invented the "methode champenoise" which was later carried back to Reims by Don Perignon who belonged to the Abbey's congregation.

But, then there's this interesting story I heard in Epernay:

It is said that the wines of Champagne were fermented after harvest, and when the late Autumn and Winter chills set in, fermentation was stopped simply by throwing open the doors.

The wine was left on lees, and sent in this way to England during the 17th century. The Poms had developed a liking for this sharp, delicate wine.

It was shipped in bulk and bottled on arrival in glass that was much stronger than anything France had at the time.

During Spring, with the lees still in contact with the wine, a secondary fermentation developed, and next Summer was greeted by the sound of popping corks! Thus the exquisitely unique character of Champagne was born.

So, by design? Or by fluke?

Strict Viticultural Rules Apply

Appellation controls dictate even the viticultural practices for Champagne vineyards. Pruning is done meticulously to ensure proper aeration of the vine canopy and yield restriction after vintage every year - usually September to October - depending on climatic ripening conditions. This continues through to April.

Healthy shoots from the previous year are trained to wires around March to set the structure for the vine canopy. New shoots usually emerge in April or May - when they are exposed to frosts.

Those that survive are scrutinised meticulously for their potential to produce the best grapes. Those not looking promising are removed.

The vines flower, and the fruit sets in June-July - after which they are watched over closely by the viticulturalists to ensure the canopy allows enough sun to ripen the grapes.

Ripening usually occurs in August, weather permitting, and the grapes continue to develop flavours, acid and sugar levels until they reach desirable levels for fine Champagne production.

Champagne is one of the very few regions where mechanised harvesting is not allowed. Grape-picking is still done by hand, and great care is taken to ensure the fruit arrives at the winery in good condition.

Visiting Cellar Door

There are several towns you can travel to to experience Champagne, however Epernay claims to be the capital.

It's easy to get to Epernay by train from Paris, Reims or even from the west via Strassbourg. The town of Epernay is populated by around 26,000 people - so it's small and comfortable.

The primary destination for visitors is the Avenue de Champagne, originally known as the Fauborg de la Folie, which is lined with mansions and Champagne producers.

The avenue runs over the top of around a quarter of a million bottles of Champagne stored in deep underground caves. The Moët & Chandon caves, for example, run 2km under the avenue!

The tourist office is on this avenue ... but it appears to close down outside peak tourist season.

At the end of the avenue is Place de Champagne. This is where you'll find Mercier, as well as some vineyards extending up a slope. Climb up the slope and you get a great panoramic view over Epernay and the surrounding hills covered with vines.

The largest producer, and indeed the most impressive winery, is De Castellane. running along the train line, the tower of this winery is a centrepiece of the town.

Moët & Chandon claim to be the leading house of Champagne in the region, and indeed their world-reknowned status supports this claim. Of the 41 Premier Crus, and 17 Grand Crus in the region, 25 and 13 respectively are part of their heritage.

The tour of Moët & Chandon's Champagne house and Hotel Moët [conveniently the first one you come across on Avenue de Champagne] very effectively reflects the refinement of their wines. Fluent english-speaking, and immaculately presented guides with the most meticulous French pronunciation skills [so much so that I had difficulty following], lead you through the house [proudly pointing out that Napoleon's bum actually sat on those chairs ...} and underground caves. At the end of the tour is the obligatory tasting, and you are left to finish your generous pourings at your leisure, then find your own way out.

One more thing about Epernay ... make sure you spoil yourself with the magnificent French pasties at the local bakeries!

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Last Modified: Sunday, February 07, 2010